When my parents sold my childhood home in Raleigh, North Carolina, and moved further down the east coast, I never thought I would visit my home state again, or at least not anytime soon. My mom always told me that home is where your family is, and though I considered visiting NC for a quick weekend here and there, I never got around to it. I usually preferred to use that airfare to travel to South Florida, where I could not only visit my parents but where the water is crystal blue and it’s summer all year long.

Yet after nearly three months of being locked inside a New York City apartment during the pandemic, escaping to Florida just wasn’t an option. That’s when the idea of heading down to the Outer Banks surfaced. I thought back to the summers I spent in Ocracoke with friends from high school, biking around the island in our beach cruisers, and visiting lighthouses and ice cream shops. Other fond memories of lazy NC summers at the beach flooded my mind — midnight strolls along the water, random fishing adventures, fresh seafood and biscuits, and a lot of Nicholas Sparks novels.

And so nostalgia took over, and I convinced Jean that a visit to the OBX was just what we needed. Only an 8-hour drive from Brooklyn, the islands off the coast were just far enough to enjoy ideal beach weather.

Where to stay?

We searched for a place to stay that was somewhere close to the beach, since both Jean and I are ocean people, without much success. Every rental was either a huge home with four bedrooms or outside our budget. Then we came across The Cypress Moon Inn on Airbnb, a bed & breakfast right on the sound. Our trip wouldn’t have been the same without the Inn. Though it wasn’t walking distance from the beach, it was only a five-minute drive away and close to everything we needed - grocery stores, restaurants, etc. Since we would be working from the Inn during the week, we needed a comfortable space and calm refuge with a great WiFi connection. The Inn had all of that and more. From our room, we could access a beautiful porch that overlooked the sound, which is where we set up our workstations. Working from that porch — with its view, gentle breeze, and birds chirping — was the best decision we’ve made in 2020. I can’t stress enough how blissfully happy I was to sit out there and just breathe in the fresh air. It felt like another world, one where there was no pandemic.

The view right outside our bedroom, and where we set up our “offices” for the week

The owners, Greg and Linda, were also so kind to us and made us feel extremely welcome and at home. Linda checked in on us every day, bringing us food and making sure that we had everything we needed to be comfortable. We would run into Greg in the house as well, usually busy fixing something up but always willing to chat and share stories. Leaving our doors open and unlocked all week was the kind of bed & breakfast experience we were seeking, one where you can truly unwind.

What to do?

As I mentioned, our stay in Kitty Hawk was not a vacation, but nevertheless, we explored as much as we could. Throughout the week we tried to sneak away to the beach every day at lunch, which is the best lunch break anyone can ask for. Once we were done working, we spent the late afternoons on the beach as well, enjoying a beer (since you can drink beer on the beach there), buried in a book, walking along the shore, and swimming of course. We would then go out to dinner in our salty skin, and happily return to the Inn to sit out on the porch. The only days we could truly explore more of the Outer Banks though were on our first and last days there.

So on our first day in the OBX Jean and I visited the Bodie Island Lighthouse, which was absolutely worth seeing even if we couldn’t go inside and climb up to the top. There are a few lighthouses scattered about the OBX, and all feel iconic to the islands. The Bodie Island lighthouse sits on an island that is actually part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore, essentially miles and miles of undeveloped beaches in the Outer Banks. We didn’t have time to explore the entire seashore, and unfortunately didn’t see any wild horses, but Jean and I were able to visit the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge, which is adjacent to the national seashore and a very unique experience. The beach there is deserted and nothing like the other beaches which are lined with houses and full of children running around playing. Over there, there’s not a lifeguard in sight, and no one is in the water.

A quick selfie with the Bodie Island Lighthouse

On our last day in the Outer Banks, we visited the Wright Brothers National Memorial, created to commemorate the first flight. Although this visitor’s center was closed, I was still able to catch a glance at the exhibit and model plane inside. The flight line was fun to see as well, which shows how far the plane flew on each attempt (not that far but still impressive for the world’s FIRST FLIGHT), as was the sculpture depicting the first flight. Overall, you don’t need to spend hours here and the $20 entrance fee feels a tiny bit steep, but it’s important to visit.

Afterward, we drove 10 minutes south and went to Jockey’s Ridge State Park to explore the sand dunes, which are the tallest active sand dunes in the Eastern United States. Luckily for us, it was pouring the day we decided to pay the dunes a visit, but we still managed to enjoy wandering around on the soft wet sand with our umbrellas and getting lost.

Pretending to be Mary Poppins at Jockey’s Ridge

I wish we had time to visit Cape Hatteras, which our Inn host Greg told us has much warmer ocean water and three cute towns we should explore. I also would have loved to take Jean to Ocracoke, whose old-time charm, I think, is due to the fact that it’s only accessible by ferry. You can’t do everything though, so we stuck to the northern islands.

We did have time to visit the town of Manteo, however, which is only sound-side and had an entirely different vibe from Kitty Hawk with little stores, boats docked along the marina, and kids biking around. It felt a bit dead though, perhaps due to the pandemic, so my first impression wasn’t one that had me dying to go back.

Duck, on the other hand, was adorable. Only 15 minutes from the Inn without traffic, and 50 minutes with traffic (don’t ask me how that’s possible), it’s a lovely little place to go shopping in boutiques, walk along the stretch of boardwalk, and eat at a restaurant with a view of the sound and the sunset (more on this later).

And last but not least, the beach is one of the main highlights of the OBX. If you don’t enjoy the beach, don’t come here. Prior to our trip, I had read that the Kitty Hawk beach isn’t as nice as some of the others, but I disagree. We absolutely loved it. Jean was able to surf, and I was able to swim every day. I will note that the water in the Outer Banks apparently changes in respect to the wind, so one day I was able to swim for 45 minutes, while another I couldn’t last more than three minutes. Nevertheless, the water was much clearer than I remember North Carolina ocean water, and we even saw a bunch of dolphins during our time there. When on the beach, the Kitty Hawk pier was also fun to check out. Unlike some piers, it was clean, newly renovated, and its interior building (closed at the time we were there) looked as if it could host weddings.

Actually taken from the beach at Southern Shores, but it’s close enough

Saying hello to the Kitty Hawk lifeguards

Where to eat?

When we visited the Outer Banks, restaurants had just opened at 50 percent capacity. After cooking for nearly three months straight, you can imagine what a treat this was for us—especially as “New Yorkers” so used to eating out every weekend. Both of us were thrilled to go out, and actually really impressed with the food and service in the OBX. For some reason, we hadn’t expected it to be as good as it was. With so much fresh seafood though, you just can’t go wrong.

So for breakfast, we ate at the Inn and had what Linda, Greg’s wife, prepared for us—typically eggs along with toast or a biscuit, and fruit. I forgot just how much I love biscuits, though it’s better for my health that they’re not as good here in New York. We did try one place for breakfast since I noticed it was a local chain: Duck Donuts. We got a glazed donut and a chocolate one, and I have to admit - it was one of the best donuts I’ve had in a while. I’ve been an advocate of Krispy Kreme for a very long time now since they originated in my home state as well, but these… well, they might just be better. They were warm, greasy (in the best way possible), and outstanding. Had I tried these when I was a teenager, I think I would have wanted one every morning.

For our very first meal in the Outer Banks, Jean and I got lunch at Austin Fish Company in Nag’s Head. We were just driving around and sort of stumbled into it. We actually ended up coming back, that’s how much we loved their cajun-spiced peel n’ eat steamed shrimp. We were so excited to see fresh seafood that our first time there we ended up getting two pounds of shrimp for only $20. That’s about 60 or so shrimp, and yep, we ate each and every single one.

We also picked up steamed shrimp and crabs from a place closer to the Inn, Carawan Seafood Co. Being the crazy people that we are, we ate them right on the beach.

Steamers, which is technically located in Southern Shores (the town right next to Kitty Hawk), also gets an honorable mention seeing as we ate there three times. Each time we were able to snag a table outside, and the food was delicious. We had mahi-mahi tacos, tuna steak, crab cakes, shrimp, clam chowder, and jambalaya that was a pleasant surprise. Each time we went there I also had a beer from Ghost Harbor Brewery in Elizabeth City, which I’m officially a big fan of. The staff was extremely kind, and the quality of the food was reliable. I introduced Jean to hushpuppies at Steamers as well. You can’t really go to NC without having a few, can you?

We tried a few other places close to the Inn: High Cotton BBQ, Black Pelican, and Rundown Cafe, Taco Loco, and John’s Drive-In. High Cotton BBQ was a bit of a disappointment since I really wanted Jean to try some authentic NC BBQ. This wasn’t it, but we did get a bunch of free desserts from the owner. Black Pelican was decent, but not my favorite. The interior felt and smelled old, but we were able to eat out on their deck which overlooked the beach. We had local ahi seared tuna there that was tasty, as well as grilled mahi-mahi. It wasn’t as good as Steamers is how I would put it. Rundown Cafe I would avoid altogether. It seemed really nice and has this great outdoor space, but it gave me a stomach ache. The tuna steak and scallop sandwich we had was bland and mediocre.

Tacoloco and John’s Drive-In were restaurants discovered thanks to Linda, who had recommended them to us. I stand with Linda, both restaurants were pretty good. Taco Loco had excellent and authentic shrimp, tuna, and pork tacos, and John’s Drive-In was sort of a shack serving amazing vanilla milkshakes as well as deep-fried fish. We had the dolphin sandwich (deep-fried mahi-mahi) and grilled Cajun spiced tuna steak. This was actually our last meal in the OBX, right before our 8-hour drive back, and it was well worth it.

We also tried several restaurants in Duck, since most face the sound so you have a great view while you dine. I wouldn’t recommend Coastal Cantina for its Mexican food to anyone. Crab quesadillas are a big no in my books, but I would recommend picking up a draft beer here and walking along the boardwalk. We also tried NC Coast Grill & Bar, which was about the same level of quality as Black Pelican — maybe better, maybe worse. Here we ordered fresh oysters, raw tuna, and good fries. The clams and gumbo weren’t anything to rave about though. Actually, the clams were pretty disgusting and tasted like brine. NC Coast struck me as the sort of place you go to enjoy a bottle of wine and some oysters while waiting for the sun to set. The view is pretty great.

My favorite dinner in Duck, and our best meal during our Outer Banks stay, was at Blue Point. We were lucky enough to see a phenomenal sunset while sharing one of Jean’s go-to bottles of white wine from France. We ordered she-crab bisque, which was excellent and nothing like the other soups we tasted — you know when you’re not sure if they just chuck canned soup into a pot, add some seafood, and call it homemade. Nope, this was the real deal. We also had scallops which came alongside a curry, as well as yellowfin tuna with quinoa. The pecan pie was one of the best pecan pies I’ve ever had, and usually, I find pecan pie much too sweet. This one came along with a bourbon caramel ice cream and was perfectly balanced.

Capturing the sunset throughout our dinner

One more, because we looks so happy in the setting sun

For dessert in Duck, we also tried another spot one night: Donutz on a Stick. I’m not sure what North Carolina’s obsession with donuts is, but we got ice cream here. It was good, maybe not wait-40-minutes-in-line-good, but I was excited. If there is any beach tradition I can remember from my youth, it’s having ice cream.

Conclusion

We had a blast in the Outer Banks and would have stayed an extra week had the weather not turned on us and told us to go home. Staying at Greg and Linda’s place was perfect, and felt like a home away from home. Each night we disconnected from the world, reading a book or playing mancala — which I loved as a kid. We tried to catch the sunset on the Inn’s dock whenever we could, or simply sit outside on the porch and enjoy the sounds of crazy frogs singing to us. Sleeping with a cool breeze coming through the open windows felt healing. Our little pandemic escape was more necessary than we could have imagined, and the Outer Banks thankfully reminded us that there is more to this world than being locked inside an NYC apartment. There is beauty in nature, and life maybe really is better at the beach. I can’t wait to go back.

The view from The Cypress Moon Inn’s dock

Even with the rain, Jean still had to drag me away from the water

The Outer Banks: A Home Away From Home

Where to stay?

What to do?

Where to eat?

Conclusion